What is “made to order” and what is the process?
the majority of footwear produced and purchased in the us are produced using an “assembly line” or automated process that leave major gaps in quality control. further more, this process is designed to produce the end product at the cheapest possible cost in materials, finishing and labor, often resulting in an inferior shoe that must be replaced after just a short time of wear.
on the other end of the spectrum, we produce our footwear using the highest quality standards and most of our processes are done entirely by hand. we produce our footwear one pair at a time upon your order to ensure that you are receiving the best possible product, individually crafted, individually quality controlled and individually finished just for you!
Choose your Shoe Design and Sizing and proceed to Checkout. Be sure to enter your correct Shipping Address so that delivery is not delayed.
Once your Order is received, we will begin to make your Shoes based on your Selection and any Details you have requested. This is the unique beauty of Made to Order Footwear is that each pair will differ slightly, even if the exact same style and color are selected, resulting in a Unique Finish for each Client! Each pair is Hand Lasted, Hand Colored and Hand Finished before being prepared for delivery to you
Each pair is receives a thorough Quality Check before being prepared for shipment. This process includes an initial Leather Treatment and Polish that will allow you to wear your new shoes as soon as you receive them! Our shoes are delivered to your doorstep with our standard FREE SHIPPING and will include a SHOE CARE CARD that will show you how to care for your shoes for years to come!
what is a goodyear welt?
Goodyear welting is the oldest, most labor intensive, and most durable method of sole construction. It can be done by machine or by hand and involves multiple steps.
The first part of the process is preparing the insole for stitching. This is done by creating a perpendicular “rib” that runs across the insole. Some shoemakers create the rib by cutting and sculpting the insole, while others will do so by using a supplementary material like linen tape.
The second step is to last the shoe. This is done by stretching the outsole over the last and attaching it, along with the insole, to the last.
Part three is the actual welting. At this point shoe-specific thread is sewn through the welt, the upper, and the insole rib. Through a separate stitch, the welt is attached to the outsole. For both of these stitching points, a lockstitch is used – meaning the chain won’t unravel if it breaks down at any particular point in the shoe.
The two-level stitching makes it incredibly easy to resole a Goodyear welted shoe. Because the welt acts as a buffer between the insole and the outsole, removing the old sole and attaching a new one can be done by machine or by hand and without a specific machine. The extra layers make the shoe more water resistant and supportive.
WHAT IS A BLAKE WELT?
Of the welting methods, Blake is the most common. It also is a byproduct of the industrial revolution because the stitching is done on the inside of the shoe.
For a Blake welt, the upper is wrapped around the insole and attached between it and the outsole. A single stitch attaches everything together.
Because it is a simpler construction than a Goodyear welt, it is also less expensive. It is a process that allows for resoling once the outsole is worn or damaged. Blake welting is also superior when seeking a close-cut sole. Because there are no exterior stitches, the body of the outsole can be cut extremely close to the upper. Lastly, because it has fewer layers than a Goodyear welt, a Blake-welted sole is more flexible.
HOW ARE THESE METHODS BETTER THAN HOW MOST PRODUCTION SHOES ARE MADE?
Cementing is by far the most popular process for mass production footwear. This is the cheapest, fastest, and most common method of attaching the sole of a shoe. Once the upper is shaped and completed around the last, the sole is attached with an adhesive and no welting is used.
It is a cheap, quick way of attaching the sole, making the shoes’ overall price much more aggressive than a pair which is welted.
It is a cheap, quick way of attaching the sole, affecting the durability of the connection between the upper and the sole. It is also a method that completely prevents any resoling. Once the upper begins to separate from the sole or the sole itself is damaged, the shoes need to be replaced, rather than repaired.
I NORMALLY PURCHASE SHOES IN THE $100.00 - $200.00 PRICE RANGE AND DON’T UNDERSTAND WHY THESE COST SO MUCH MORE?
Golden Rule: You Should Never Skimp On A Pair Of Leather Shoes. It’s A Saying You’ve Probably Heard Before But Never Really Wondered Why. But Isn’t A Leather Shoe Just A Leather Shoe? Not Quite.
Maybe You Just Don’t Wear Dress Shoes Very Often, So You Don’t Want To Invest A Huge Amount Of Money. Maybe You Have The Money, But Don’t Want To Spend It, Or Simply Don’t Know The Difference, And When You Look At Shoes You Think They’re All The Same.
The Only Way For You To Truly Understand What You Are Getting When You Buy A Pair Of Our Shoes Is To Educate Yourself. Therefore We Are Going To Outline The Quality Hallmarks In Our Shoes Versus Cheaper Alternatives.
$100.00 - $200.00 Shoes:
Faux Stitching: Most Dress Shoes In This Price Range Feature Something That Looks Like A Welt Or Stitching But More Often Than Not, It’s Simply Glued, And The Stitching Is Merely Decorative, So It Looks Like A More Expensive Shoe. Even Though There Are Glues In The Market Today That Keep Houses Together, What’s Generally Used For Shoes Is Less Expensive, Cheaper, And Doesn’t Glue As Well. Therefore, Soles Will Likely Come Off After A Year Or Two Of Hard Wear. You Can Glue Them Back On, But Most Of The Time, The Shoe Is In Such Bad Condition Overall That It Must Be Thrown Away.
Soles: Sometimes You Can See A Welt At The Bottom But Don’t Be Fooled. If You Look Closely, It Looks Like Leather At First Sight, But In Fact, It’s Just A Composite Material That Is Supposed To Look Like Leather But It’s Cheaper, And It’s Actually Rubber. Most Of The Time, Men’s Dress Shoes In This Price Range Have Either Composite Material That’s Meant To Look Like Leather, Or You Have A Rubber Sole. Even If You Get Leather, It Will Be Of A Lower Quality That Wears Much More Quickly Than On A More Expensive Shoe.
Details: Something That You Find A Lot In $100.00- $200.00 Shoes Is That They Try To Fake Higher End Details But Usually, The Execution Is Not Quite As Refined. For Example, On Many Well Know Brand Name Shoes, You May Have A Stitched Pattern At The Bottom, And You May See A Stitched Pattern At The Top, However, At The Top, It’s Just Injection Molded So It’s Not A Real Stitch And It’s Simply Meant To Be Deceitful.
Inferior Leather Quality: Usually, The Leather Is Quite Hard And To Sell The Shoe For A $100.00 -$200.00 Retail, The Leather Must Be Cheap. That Means Second Or Third-grade Leather That Is Then Sanded And Pigmented With Dye To Cover Up All The Flaws. Even Though It May Not Look Very Different Than A High-quality Leather Shoe When New, Once You Walk In It, You Create Creases, And The Pigmented Leather Will Just Age Very Poorly. The Pigments Will Come Off And Expose What’s Underneath. Also, The Leather Won’t Develop A Nice Patina; It Just Looks Cheap, And The Shoe Looks Worse The Longer You Wear It.
Unrefined Lasts: In This Price Range, The Shoe Shape And Lasts Are Generally Chunky, With A Large Or Boxy Toe, And Overall Wide, Clunky Look So They Fit Every Kind Of Foot. Usually, The Last Is One Of Those Things In A Shoe That Quickly Reveals The Quality Of A Shoe Because Personally, We Have Never Seen An Inexpensive Men’s Dress Shoe With A Refined Last.
Padded Interior: Usually, The Leathers Are So Stiff And Hard That Manufacturers Have To Put Padded Foam On The Inside Of The Shoes To Make Them Comfortable To Walk In. So When You Put On The Shoe For The First Time, It Feels Quite Soft, Cushiony, And Comfortable. However, It’s Cheap Foam That Will Wear Out Very Quickly, And Once It Does, You Just Have A Hard, Uncomfortable Leather Left.
Limited Colors: Apart From That, You Usually Don’t Have Much Color Choice. You Get Black, Brown, Or Tan, But You Probably Won’t Find A Nice Burgundy Shoe Or A Beautiful Hand Patina Finish That Gets Better With Age.
M Andrews Sartorial Luxury Collection Footwear:
Comfort: It May Take A Little Longer To Break-in The Shoe, But They’re Made Of All Leather Which Means You Sweat Less, And They Have A Cork Insole Which Is Soft And Cushiony So Even If You Walk All Day, It’s Still Comfortable.
Leather Quality: It Is Either Dyed All The Way Through Or Hand Colored Crust Leather. It Has Open Pores That Are Often Uncorrected, And You Simply Get A Beautiful Leather That Develops A Patina Over Time Which Is Exactly What You Want Because It Looks Classic And Elegant And Can Be Resold. You Also Get A Hand Burnished Finish That Gets Darker Towards The Toe. The Leather Lining Is Non-chrome Tanned And Quite Absorbent.
Construction: Our Shoes Undergo A Higher End Construction Method Such As A Blake, Blake Rapid, Goodyear Welt Or A Norvegese Welt.
Heel Caps & Toe Caps: On A Our Shoes, They’re Made Of Thermoplastic Leather. On A Very Inexpensive Shoe, They Are Usually Plastic.
Lasts: Generally, The Lasts On Our Shoes Are Just More Elegant, Refined, And Timeless.
Details: The Brogue Detailing, Stitching, Styling, Profile And Pretty Much Everything About Our Shoes Is Nicer; Everything Is More Thought Through.
Colors: Of Course, We Have A Much Larger Color Range; Blues, Tans, Greens, Reds, And Anything Else You Can Think Of.
Something To Remember: Even If You Have The Nicest Suits, A Beautiful Tie, A Good Shirt, And Nice Cuff Links, Cheap Shoes Will Always Bring Your Look Down.
Cost Per Wear: If You Want To Buy A Shoe And You Don’t Think You Can Justify The High Upfront Cost, It Makes Sense To Look At The Cost Per Wear. Let’s Say You Have $100.00 Shoe And You Can Wear It 200 Times; That Makes It $0.50 Per Wear. On The Other Hand, A Pair Purchased In Say In 2003, Which Had A Retail Price Of $500.00+, Has Probably Been Used For Over 2000 Times. That Brings The Cost Down To Just $0.25 Per Wear Which Is Half Of The $100.00 Shoe.
Not Only Does It Cost Half As Much, But You Also Won’t Spend Time On Replacing The Shoes. You Will Have Nice Shoes Throughout The Years That Look Elegant And Upgrade Your Outfit Rather Than Downgrade It. You Also Just Have To Only Break It In Once, And You Can Even Play With The Patina. If It’s A Lighter Color And You Want To Make It Darker, It’s No Problem Because It’s Open Pore Leather.
So Overall, Don’t Just Look At The Price But Understand What Quality You Are Getting. It’s Just Important That You Educate Yourself. M Andrews Sartorial Luxury Collection Footwear Are An Investment In Your Style, Appearance, And Yourself. They Are An Investment That You Will Enjoy For Years To Come. Experience Our Style, Quality And Luxury!
Ok, But Even In Your Price Range, Aren’t I Safe Going With Well Known Luxury Brands?
Unfortunately, The Price Or The Brand Name Isn’t Always A Good Indicator Of Shoe Quality. For Example, Designers Such As Gucci, Armani, Tom Ford And Others Automatically Charge More Because They Have A Name, No Matter What The Construction Or Quality Of The Shoe.
Another Factor To Consider Is The Cost Associated With Getting The Shoes In Your Hands, Most Of Which Has Nothing To Do With The Actual Cost Of Producing The Shoes. Examples Of This Are Marketing Costs, Several “middle Men” Or Distribution Channels That All Have To Make Money Such As Retail Stores, And The Costs Of Endorsement And Promo Campaigns That Feature Celebrities And Influencers That May Or May Not Even Believe In The Product They Are Endorsing.
Our Straight To Consumer Model Eliminates Those Costs, Resulting In Footwear That May Cost $1000.00 - $2000.00 From Another Retailer Or Brand. Additionally, Our Celebrity Endorsements Come From Real Clients Who Have Purchased Their Footwear And Have Volunteered To Give Their Testimonial Or Model Their Footwear, Resulting In Genuine Endorsements That Aren’t Manufactured And Are Not Factored Into Your Price.